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Old 02-Jul-2009, 13:51   #1
Wulfie Wulfie is offline
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Yep,
That's what I suspected with the alternator, I can't think of any reason why the voltage would increase, mind you I don't fully understand it all
I had a good look at the large fuse situated at the side of the battery last night, it was pretty cruddy to be honest so I dismantled the connector and had a bash at cleaning up the female connectors and the lugs on the fuse, the voltage accross the 2 wires was again 12.5v, however I couldn't crack the bike up as it was getting late and it's loud as a ******* and half the street had their bedroom windows open plus her indoors would have looped .......ooh the temption.
I take it that this fuse is between the RR and the battery then to prevent an overload if the RR has a wobbler ? although mine's on 30A ??
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Old 03-Jul-2009, 01:31   #2
DEMON DEMON is offline
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here are some quick notes :-

1. if you were to measure the dc voltage at the battery at idle you will prob find it to be around 12 - 12.5 volts. Rev the bike up to 3-5k revs and it should increase to around 14.5v dc.
answering your questions :-

1. Substantial voltage from the alternator - unlikely unless you had a problem in the windings.
2.The AC voltage readings are more or less correct, but you dont mention any rpm values to cross check these. A new gen would poss give lower readings.
3. You are measuring voltage not current wulfie, and the AC voltage fluctuations are normal, changing in relation to the engine speed.
4.A blocked fuel filter will cause engine running problems more than affect the voltage. If your bike is running rough, then it will efect the output from the alternator accordingly
5 you could and this could be battery voltage.

a good check of all your connections is required, both batt side and reg side to ensure you have no points of high resistance. check your earths etc too...let us know what you find ?

Last edited by DEMON : 03-Jul-2009 at 01:39.
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Old 03-Jul-2009, 15:28   #3
Wulfie Wulfie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEMON
here are some quick notes :-

1. if you were to measure the dc voltage at the battery at idle you will prob find it to be around 12 - 12.5 volts. Rev the bike up to 3-5k revs and it should increase to around 14.5v dc.
answering your questions :-

1. Substantial voltage from the alternator - unlikely unless you had a problem in the windings.
2.The AC voltage readings are more or less correct, but you dont mention any rpm values to cross check these. A new gen would poss give lower readings.
3. You are measuring voltage not current wulfie, and the AC voltage fluctuations are normal, changing in relation to the engine speed.
4.A blocked fuel filter will cause engine running problems more than affect the voltage. If your bike is running rough, then it will efect the output from the alternator accordingly
5 you could and this could be battery voltage.

a good check of all your connections is required, both batt side and reg side to ensure you have no points of high resistance. check your earths etc too...let us know what you find ?

The voltage across the battery doesen't move from idle to 6000 rpm

RPM Voltage Values
tickover @ 70v
6000 rpm @ 114v +

Checked all the continuity on all wires came up OK, no leakage from the battery and across the alternator wires. All connections good.....spoke to the guys at Forza Italia yesterday seems like the common concensus is some numpty bought a dud RR from on ebay when he should have bought a new one........doh...

New one ordered, no biking for me this weekend.

Edit - the guy has offered me my ackers back, so no damage done I suppose
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Old 03-Jul-2009, 20:40   #4
DSC Member Shazaam! Shazaam! is offline
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Stator Wire Repairs
Checking the stator wire's continuity won't reveal the problem.

The error that most people make is replacing only the 6-inches or so of the crispy portion of the stator lead wires adjacent to the connector. Even though not visibly damaged, the adjacent section of wire should also be replaced with a larger gauge all the way back to where it enters the engine casing. This is because the entire wire has been overheated and has lost its electrical insulation properties which then allows the wires to short together (likely within the common sheath), usually at the higher voltages produced at higher engine speeds but sometimes also at lower rpms.

This lead wire shorting in the sheath area will damage the regulator's solid state components. Remove the sheath and use stand-off insulators where the wires come near any grounded component.
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Old 03-Jul-2009, 23:56   #5
DEMON DEMON is offline
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Good...sounds like you are getting to the bottom of the problem now, cant believe you were sold a dud on ebay, shazam's help too will guide you to a working bike shortly...hang in there, at least you are not offshore 6k miles from home with 3 bikes in the garage doin nowt !
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Old 06-Jul-2009, 15:21   #6
Wulfie Wulfie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shazaam!
Checking the stator wire's continuity won't reveal the problem.

The error that most people make is replacing only the 6-inches or so of the crispy portion of the stator lead wires adjacent to the connector. Even though not visibly damaged, the adjacent section of wire should also be replaced with a larger gauge all the way back to where it enters the engine casing. This is because the entire wire has been overheated and has lost its electrical insulation properties which then allows the wires to short together (likely within the common sheath), usually at the higher voltages produced at higher engine speeds but sometimes also at lower rpms.

This lead wire shorting in the sheath area will damage the regulator's solid state components. Remove the sheath and use stand-off insulators where the wires come near any grounded component.

Thanks Shazaam.....I had considered that a common sheath for both wires may not be a good idea (unfortunately after the fact) so when I get to fitting the New RR I'll probably do the wiring right back to the alternator stator, although the tests aren't showing up any big problems in the outputs at the moment, better safe than sorry. No doubt i'll keep you posted

DEMON - I can give them bikes a workout for ya if you like
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Old 13-Jul-2009, 16:32   #7
Wulfie Wulfie is offline
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Fitted new wiring from the stator to the RR last weekend.....sorted

Thanks for all the advice guys

Chris
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Old 17-Jul-2009, 19:07   #8
DEMON DEMON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wulfie
Fitted new wiring from the stator to the RR last weekend.....sorted

Thanks for all the advice guys

Chris
aboslutely mate..get yourself up to the North of England and we will show some of the great roads round here!!
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