Ducati Sporting Club UK > Model Specific - Discussion, Technical Problems and Help > 998 / 996 / 916 / 748 > Fuel Pump Problem Has me baffled?

[Shazaam!]

The fuel pump supplies fuel under pressure as long as the crankshaft is turning. For safety, the pump is switched off by the ECU after about five seconds if the crankshaft stops turning.

So if the crank rotation sensor gap is incorrect such that it grows too large at temperature, the ECU will think the engine is stopped and shut off the pump. A cracked casing will also cause the gap to be incorrect at temperature.

If the sensor-ECU wiring or the sensor itself is faulty this can also result in pump shut-off.

Check the gap.

[dunlop0_1]

Originally Posted by Shazaam!

The fuel pump supplies fuel under pressure as long as the crankshaft is turning. For safety, the pump is switched off by the ECU after about five seconds if the crankshaft stops turning.

So if the crank rotation sensor gap is incorrect such that it grows too large at temperature, the ECU will think the engine is stopped and shut off the pump. A cracked casing will also cause the gap to be incorrect at temperature.

If the sensor-ECU wiring or the sensor itself is faulty this can also result in pump shut-off.

Check the gap.

Brilliant.

Confirmed somewhat by this guy with the same problem.


http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct...goJOEoOwG7FjXA

[Gbyte666]

Wow, not seen you on here for a long time Shazaam, top tip M8.
Hope that helps Neil.
Dont think I'm going to make Brands as my rear shock is not back from refurb yet. Aiming for Snett to watch your dust. lol

Craig

[bradders]

I may do C1 at Snett too Craig, I like it there

[dunlop0_1]

Well some progress may have been made. After reading the link posted earlier the guy had exactly the same issues as me. Since I have changed I think every part on the bike I decided to take some resistance readings across the crank sensor and the spare one I used (don't know if it's relevant though). Both of them cold gave around 340 ohms and hot around 450 ohms.
Now compare this with a brand new one which started at around 450 ohms cold and went up to around 980 ohms when hot.
I figure like the guy in the link that the breaking down point of each sensor only kicked in when the bike got to around 180 degrees + hence my first track sessions being with out a problem. Once the sensor had got hot and spit the dummy out I don't think it recovered fully until it cooled again, which possible was not long enough in the 40 mins between sessions.

I'm hoping I had two duff sensors and the new one will prove my right tomorrow at Angelsey. Still taking an ECU wiring harness with me though.

[dunlop0_1]

FIXED

Turned out to be a partial break in one of the ECU wires near the multiplug.
Should of been easy to find you may say, the little fecker appears to have been temperature sensitive and old showed its face when either the exhaust made it warm or the poor connection made it warm, expanded and broke the circuit only to cooled then down and make the circuit once more.

At least I now know all my spares work fine.

Happy days

Well apart form the van which dropped a valve on the way home and is now scrap.

[DucSailor26]

Hi there.

Just reading this post and hoping your still around from 2009. I have a 2001 996 Biposta experiencing the same issues. You mentioned that" Turned out to be a partial break in one of the ECU wires near the multiplug."


I'm having the same problem with a temperature sensitive short. Wondering how you went about finding it in the wiring near the ECU multiplug?


Cheers!


DucSailor26