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Old 26-Jun-2006, 14:27
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DSC Member Jools Jools is offline
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Have a word with Marko, he's investigated raising the forks through the yokes (thus lowering the front end) and by how many rings (on the forks) to do it by. You can't go to low, otherwise the wheel will hit the rad on heavy braking.

If you know how much to shift the forks it's an easy enough job, but I would add a bit to what carbon said....For gawds sake, dont loosen the front forks in the yokes until the weight of the bike is taken off them. You could do this a number of ways...A front paddock stand that supports the bike up under the front of the lower yoke, or...use secure webbing straps capable of taking the weight of the bike and suspend it from a strong enough rafter in your garage...or, get an Abba stand that will support the weight of the bike in the middle and use a jack under the horizontal exhaust pipe to jack the front end up. Doing it any other way and you'll stand a chance of the weight of the bike just crashing down on top of the wheel (I wouldn't rely on the clip ons to hold it). You might want to take the front wheel out as well so that you can slide each fork leg individually.

Finally, make sure you've got the right torque settings for the triple clamp bolts. They need to be tight enough, but if you do them too tight you can oval the fork tubes.


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Old 26-Jun-2006, 15:21
tranquil_rage tranquil_rage is offline
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I'd be inclined to leave the bike as is. It's not as if a 999S has poor geometery to start with. While not a very hard thing to do in terms of technical skill it can be a complete git in terms of time and effort required.

If you do want to do it then as Jools says find out how far to lower it first and make sur ethe bike is supported properly. Thought I might clarify that he did not mean support it with a jack actually on the exhaust pipe, but rather in that region.
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Old 26-Jun-2006, 15:53
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There is nothing wrong with doing this, but i suggest as everyone else, you consult a specialist.

FWIW, my 999r was set up by rick at jhp. As a good guidline you can measure 186mm from the bottom of the lower yolk down to the bottom edge of the fork just above the seal.

this in conjunction with adjusting the rear ride height accordingly ie as near to 285 on the datum tool is the way to go!
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Old 26-Jun-2006, 15:56
Gizmo Gizmo is offline
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if you haven't set the sag and springs front and rear don't move the forks until you get this done. Once you know that is correct then look at the geometry ( alter forks/ rear ride height). Forks need to be balanced against rear ride height you can't do one without knowing where the other is.
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Old 26-Jun-2006, 16:08
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But its kind of a do everything sort of science. If you set the sag at one geometry, then you need to set it again when youve altered the geometry!
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Old 26-Jun-2006, 16:20
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Just my 2p would be leave it and ride the bloody thing!!
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Old 26-Jun-2006, 16:36
Gizmo Gizmo is offline
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yup, it takes time and effort Andy, I don't think anyone said it was easy the best way is using a digital angle gauge as that just gives you the head angle set with you on the bike. TBH once sag is set the difference 5 or 10mm ride height at either end isn't great and could be taken up on preload adjustors, not exactly a big job.


Or you could just ride it, mate of mine was out on RTL, bog standard 999R no shock mods, forks set as they left factory and I doubt if anyone was anywhere near him for corner speed, talent usually compensates for set-up, the bikes aren't that far off as they leave the factory.
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Old 26-Jun-2006, 17:01
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I dont think its fair to say just get out and ride it as per your mates 999r. i know if he used the 999s on a trackday the road suspension set up would be too soft for track at even the mildest of pace.

I guess we have to just take the question as the question, and not diversify to the bigger picture of the dark world of suspension setting!

I really do believe part of the ducati experience is about the tinkering, and not just get on it and ride!
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Old 26-Jun-2006, 19:19
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Originally Posted by Gizmo
yup, it takes time and effort Andy, I don't think anyone said it was easy the best way is using a digital angle gauge as that just gives you the head angle set with you on the bike. TBH once sag is set the difference 5 or 10mm ride height at either end isn't great and could be taken up on preload adjustors, not exactly a big job.


Or you could just ride it, mate of mine was out on RTL, bog standard 999R no shock mods, forks set as they left factory and I doubt if anyone was anywhere near him for corner speed, talent usually compensates for set-up, the bikes aren't that far off as they leave the factory.
i had mine set up at k-tec,they said the 749-999 were to soft on the rear out the factory,mine used to squat at the rear,after they took the sag out of the rear then set up the forks the bike feels very sharp & doent feel like i boat! worked for me,ive had k-tec do my forks & im happy with 3 rings showing at top yoke.
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Old 26-Jun-2006, 20:23
Gizmo Gizmo is offline
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Originally Posted by pedro
i had mine set up at k-tec,they said the 749-999 were to soft on the rear out the factory,
that depends upon how heavy you are and whether your bike is mono or bip mine was a bip with a 75 spring i now run a softer 70 so as it came from factory it was too hard... it just goes to show that setings are individual.

Its very easy to get confused with it all and using the likes of k tech is the best way, personally my bike has 3 rings showing and 285mm on tie bar but thats what i'm happy with, maybe its not perfect but what is important is that I'm confident in it , so happier , so ride better . if i was always questioning whether its right I'd never enjoy it.
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